Of all the dishes at Joah, the budae jjigae, or “army stew,” may be one of the most familiar and true to form for fans of Korean food. It’s a classic version of the hearty soup that originated around the end of the Korean War, when the only foods not scarce were American military rations. Sliced hot dogs, batons of Spam, processed ham, and instant ramen noodles figure prominently but are combined into something greater than the sum of their parts by a broth made rich and spicy courtesy of gochujang and kimchi.
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